Saturday, September 18, 2010

Greetings in Ghana

So this post is going to deal with how greetings work in Ghana, and more importantly Volta Region because thats where I live. Waking up in the morning, the first thing I do is go around and greet everyone that lives in my compound, and furthermore the greetings ALWAYS take the exact same route. In English, you could say any number of: what's up, how's it going, good morning, hello, how are you, etc. In Ewe, you choose your greeting in the morning from the following list: ŋdi. The ŋ is pronounced like ng in sing, but the end of the g is unvoiced. So its
A. ŋdi. (Good Morning)
B. ŋdi, aƒemeto wo de? (Are you house members okay?)
A. Wodo. (They are fine)
B. Efo mi de? (Are you awake/fine?)
A. Ee. (Yes)

Depending on the time of day, ŋdi changes to ŋdo, woale, and fie, but the other parts stay exactly the same. In fact, because this greeting always happens, if you say it correctly people assume you speak fluent Ewe and so they keep asking you questions in Ewe. I use this a lot - Nye me se egome o = I dont understand, when they start saying too much.
Also, people like to know where you are going - just because. So if I'm walking around the town, someone I've never met will yell out "Afika neyina/Where are you going?". This took a long time to get used to... my first reaction when I heard this was "why do they care where I'm going?", but thats not the point. The point is to communicate with them and to build a relationship with other members in the community. Think about it - if you talk with everyone walking by, even if its just a simple question, people will know you. In fact, here its rude NOT greet people you walk past and houses you come across; I've made the mistake of not looking inside someone's house to see if they are there and was berated because I didn't greet the person. Its very much a talk-wtih-everyone-on-the-street culture, unlike many parts of the US. Also, if you give your phone number out (not recommended), people will call you just to talk about every 3 days or so, even if you met them for a second on the street: as such, I tend to be creatively untruthful and say my phone is broken or the government monitors my calls or I cant figure out how to unlock it, or my goat ate it.

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